Wednesday, December 9, 2009

La Playa

Classes ended for me last week, but I still had several days before my program ended, so I decided to spend my free time at the beach. My friend Jessica and I went to Zihuatanejo which is on the west coast of Mexico and is close to Ixtapa, a resort town. Our trip had a rocky start. We missed our first bus, so we had to buy a second set of tickets and then when we changed buses, we discovered that our second set of tickets was for a 1:00 am departure. We thought they were for 1:00 pm, so we had to buy new tickets again. It was a hassle, but we made it safely and we are already able to laugh about it. I guess we were due at least one bad travel experience.

The first thing we noticed when we arrived was how hot it was in Zihuatanejo. It was so hot in fact, that it was not a problem to have only cold water at our hotel. I got sunburnt every day even though I put on way more sunscreen that I would have thought I needed.


Those few days were so wonderful! We spent so much time relaxing. We slept for so long every night and then spent all day laying on the beach. We tried several different beaches: Las Gatas, La Ropa, and one on Isla Ixtapa. Our favorite by a long shot was La Ropa. The water was so clear and beautiful. It was perfect for swimming because it got deep gradually and there were no strange creatures. The sand was clean and there were beach chairs to relax in all along the beaches. The waves were a lot of fun too. Jessica and I tried to get out far enough in the ocean that they weren't crashing over our heads, but once this huge wave crashed right on top of us and threw us into the ocean. It was crazy! I was scraped along the bottom for a minute before I was able to regain my footing, but we were okay.


On our second day there we went on a city tour with an awesome taxi driver named Carlos. He took us all around Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa and showed us all the really expensive, exclusive hotels. There is one resort that costs $1000 USD per night! He also took us to a nature reserve and we fed the aligators raw chicken and the iguanas radish leaves. It was really neat to see twenty some iguanas come walking out of the trees.


We ate really well while we were at the beach. The food in Zihuatanejo was cheap and delicious! The last night we were there we ate at a nicer restaurant on the beach. I had grilled shrimp, rice and salad. It was so good, but kind of weird because the shrimp were still intact, heads and all. They were two-tailed shrimp also. It was delicious, but required some maneuvering to avoid eating the heads.


It was a great way to end my time in Mexico. I've had so many experiences and they are all so different. I can't believe that I'm coming home tomorrow. At least I'll be nice and tan. :)

Thursday, December 3, 2009

The Homestretch

I can hardly believe it - I have seven more days in Mexico. I have one more whole day in Guanajuato and five days at the beach and then I come home. It's amazing how quickly the time has gone by. It's had its ups and downs, but I am so glad that I was able to have this experience. I've learned so much and had so much fun.



This week has been a little odd. Classes and exams ended on Tuesday, so I've been able to bum around and start thinking about packing up my stuff. Wednesday I went up to El Buen Pastor and had so much fun with the girls there. I can't believe I have to say good-bye to them next week. Speaking of good-byes, I said good-bye to my church this past Sunday. It was really special because they prayed for us and then all the youth kids gave us big hugs. Today I started packing. Partly because I love packing (it's like organizing!) and partly because if I don't then I have to do it all next Wednesday morning when I could be out enjoying my last few hours in Guanajuato. I have so much stuff too. I kinda went crazy on the gift-buying so I might have to get creative to get it all packed.



People keep asking me if I'm ready to leave. I am ready. I've loved my time in Guanajuato, but that time is up. I'm ready to see my family and friends and take up my life again in South Carolina. Someday I hope to be able to bring my own family to Guanajuato and to show them the sights and to eat again at my favorite restaurants and plazas. But for now, it's time to go home.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Christmas in Guanajuato

When Christmas decorations began to appear in Guanajuato the week after Halloween and Dia de los Muertos, it seemed strange to me. However, when you don't celebrate Thanksgiving, I supposed you are allowed to jump straight to Christmas. Over the last few weeks, Guanajuato has been putting up Christmas trees and poinsettias (Nochebuenas) in the plazas and along all the staircase railings. The markets are overflowing with ornaments, Christmas lights, wreaths and fake Christmas trees for sale. Starbucks has switched to Christmas themed drinks and cups. My church started singing Christmas carols a couple weeks ago.





Since I love Christmas, I've enjoyed watching Guanajuato make the transformation. The weather has gotten a little colder and people are bundling up with scarves and warm coats. Kids are getting excited about presents and parents are preparing for the traditional fiesta of welcome for the baby Jesus. I guess that no matter where you go, the holiday season is everyone's favorite time of year.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Another Side of Guanajuato: Los Callejones

Los callejones (alleyways) are what make Guanajuato famous, and the city is full of them. The majority of the people who live in the city live in this vast network of callejones. This living situation negates any hope of privacy because the houses are crammed together and practically piled on top of each other. Not to mention some of the callejones are so narrow, you can practically step out of your house right into your neighbor's door. They are also incredibly steep and winding. Carrying anything up or down is a test of endurance. Some callejones are nice, with brightly colored houses and newly paved roads. Others are older and you have to watch your step so you don't trip on the cracked and uneven sidewalk.

I took the following photos on an exploratory adventure up one of the callejones. Once I left the main road, I felt like I was in a different world. The streets were much quieter and there was an obvious sense of the domestic side of Guanajuato.










Thursday, November 19, 2009

El Buen Pastor

Ever since I spent January at Casa Para Ninos Aleluya (children's home in Guatemala), I had hoped that I would be able to find an orphanage or children's home to volunteer at while I was in Mexico. So I talked with one of the CIEE directors, Lalo, and he helped me get involved at El Buen Pastor.

El Buen Pastor is a children's home run by some nuns at a local church. Some 20-25 girls between the ages of 3 and 16 live there. I am almost positive that none of the girls are orphans; however, they all come from home environments of extreme poverty and/or abuse. The girls live at El Buen Pastor Monday through Friday and return to their houses for the weekends. During the week, they attend school, receive solid meals and are provided with clothes, school supplies and comfortable beds. The girls all have chores every afternoon and when I arrive on Wednesdays, they are all sweeping and mopping up a storm.



My role in all this is to help with homework. Since the majority of the girls are in elementary school, I assumed that this would be a breeze. Until I tried to explain long division and Roman numerals in Spanish...talk about a challenge. In the end, both the girls and I are learning new things. Having patience is crucial to this arrangement. Some of the girls really try to understand the concepts and just like having someone nearby telling them that they are doing their work correctly. And of course, some want me to do their homework for them. Sometimes I think that they pretend like they don't know how to do something so I will help them and pay attention to them.



Even though I'm technically a homework helper, I have been able to spend time talking and listening to the girls. They all are so special and have interesting stories. Some of these stories are heartbreaking. Once I helped Estefania (8) write a note to her mom telling her how much she missed her and wanted to see her and to stay with her for forever. Diana (6) has a million brothers and sisters and last week her brother Marco Polo (no kidding) was staying at the hogar (home) because their father didn't have work and couldn't afford to take care of the two of them. Every few weeks new little girls show up and are absorbed into the group. The most recent are two pairs of sisters Citlali and Perlita and Gabriela and Alejandra. Alejandra is three years old and is one of the most precious little girls ever. It's so precious to watch the older girls help take care of her, play with her and teach her how to sweep and write the alphabet.



When I first started going to El Buen Pastor, it was tough. Nobody gave me any instructions so I had to figure things out as I went. I was super hesitant about my Spanish, and while the girls were friendly, it was a little discouraging to not be greeted with excitement and hugs when I arrived. I stuck with it though, and gradually I've gained a place in the hearts of the girls. I think it all started when I saw Estefania, Carmen and Brenda in the Centro while they were on a field trip. We recognized each other, and I went over to say hi. When I saw them later at El Buen Pastor, they were excited to remind me that we had seen each other, and I got more hugs from them. Since then, they have been my friends and are always excited to see me and sad to see me go. I love the fact that I am a regular at the hogar. I'm so glad that I stuck with it in spite of the challenges. I know that my Spanish has improved, that I've gotten a glimpse of what real life is like for these girls, and that I've made some special friends. I'll never forget the time I spent at El Buen Pastor.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

No Me Soltaras

This is one of the songs we sing at my church in Guanajuato. It's one of my favorites, and I love the idea of knowing it in Spanish and English.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Initiation

Last night I felt as Mexican as I think I ever will. There was a street fiesta for the Virgin Mary, and if there was ever an initiation for being Mexican, that party was it. First of all, I ate street tacos. Delicious as always, especially since a full meal and a drink cost about $40 pesos...about $3.10 USD. Then we ate these fried tortilla things called buñuelos that you eat with syrup...it was a huge mess, but it was also delicious...and cost us $12 pesos for three tortillas (less than $1 dollar). These are basically the Mexican version of funnel cakes. We sat and watched a Mass for the Virgin finish up which was followed by a street performance involving dancers dressed as the Devil, Death, a cowboy, a woman and a bull to name a few. It was quite entertaining because the woman dancer was actually a very large man dressed in an incredibly tight skirt, hose, and heels. The two guys dressed as the Devil had whips that they kept cracking over the crowd. It was loud, children were laughing and everyone was having a generally good time. A kind woman gave us free Ponche which is like hot cider, and it kept us warm while we watched the performance.

The most insane part of the night was when we tried to walk away from the performance. The crowd was so dense, that I couldn't control when I moved or what direction I moved in. At one point, I'm pretty sure I could have picked up both my feet and kept moving forward. I was completely wedged between the people beside, behind and in front of me. Half the time I was elbowing the person beside me in the back and the other half, I was being elbowed. Trying to maneuver this was hysterical. At one point, Jessica got stuck between people going in two different directions and literally got turned around so she was walking backwards. Of course, no was disturbed by this at all. People kept walking, pushing, shoving without an appearance of being crushed, uncomfortable or even impatient. The whole idea of personal space was completely destroyed for me last night, and it was kinda fun.

Of course, my participation in all these very Mexican activities did not prevent my standing out as a gringa. Jessica and I had three guys come up to us specifically to talk to me. Three times it was offered to buy me a drink, once to buy me food, and twice to dance. One of the guys was about my age and he came out of nowhere to stand incredibly close to me and ask me if I wanted to go get a beer. I don't like it when people stand three inches away from me to talk to me when there is plenty of space available. The guy who asked me to dance was drunk and wouldn't take no for an answer. He kept coming back to me and asking for "just one dance." We finally just walked away to avoid him. I guess my blond hair will forever prevent me from being truly Mexican.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Dia de los Muertos

Day of the Dead from Becky Heiser on Vimeo.


This is an audio slideshow that I created from pictures and information about Dia de los Muertos. I had a lot of fun compiling it, and I hope that you enjoy it!

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Tips for Living in Mexico


Today is the four month mark of my time in Guanajuato. Over the last few months there have been several things that I've learned about living in Mexico. I figured I'd share them in celebration of reaching four months.

1. Never wait until the last minute to do laundry. Chances are it will be raining when you are desperate for clean clothes.

2. Don't freak out if you turn around in the convenience store and see a man with a machine gun standing behind you. They are security guards.

3. Mexicans like to set off fireworks in the middle of the day, and if you panic at the explosions, everyone knows you are a tourist.

4. Always look both ways before crossing the street - even a one-way street.

5. If you don't have a boyfriend and people ask you if you have one, lie. It will save you from a world of awkwardness and inconvenience.

6. Make sure you get a the bus headed the right direction or else you could end up further away from your destination than you could have ever imagined.

7. When people tell you the weather gets "cold," take it with a grain of salt. I've seen people wearing scarves, mittens, and wool coats when I was comfortable in a t-shirt and a light jacket.

8. Spend time in the cafes. They are a great place to get a cheap snack, do homework and meet new people. If you are female and by yourself in a cafe, remember the "I do have a boyfriend" line because chances are, you will have someone try to ask you out.

9. Traveling by bus is really cheap. Take advantage of the opportunities.

10. Accept the fact that you will stick out...don't worry, people will begin to recognize that you have been there for an extended period of time. Carrying a camera around all the time is not a great way to blend in.

Just some tips ... you can take them or leave them.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Washing Clothes

The washing machine at my homestay is broken. Apparently it will fill up with water, but not complete the rest of the cycle. Of course, this comes at the worst possible time...I had no clean clothes, and I didn't know what to do. Today I decided to ask the housekeeper how she had washed clothes the other day. Sure enough, it was a washboard in the back patio.

So I spent a good portion of the afternoon, scrubbing my clothes on the washboard. This was new - I've been able to do my own laundry for quite some time and I know how to hang clothes on a line to dry, but washing by hand... It's harder than it looks. Actually the most difficult part was wringing my recently-rinsed clothes to get out as much water as possible before hanging them up to dry. If I had had a second set of hands, everything would have been much easier. My clothes were still dripping a little when I hung them on the line. Needless to say, I was soaked by the time I finished and my hands were red from the soap and from jean-burn.

On the plus side, I have no experienced how many Mexicans have to wash their clothes every time. The sad thing is that I still have a mountain of dirty clothes in my room, so I'll be repeating this experience in the near future. Hopefully, the washing machine will be back in business soon.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

A Trip to Michoacan

This past weekend I fulfilled one of my goals for my time in Mexico - I went to Michoacan. This was not an original goal, but since I've been in Guanajuato, everyone I have talked to has advised me to go there. Adjectives such as beautiful, magical (in Spanish this doesn't sound so corny), indigenous, charming, and completely worth it were all used and captured my attention. This past weekend was also Dia de los Muertos which turned out to be perfect because Michoacan is famous for it's celebrations surrounding this very Mexican holiday. I'm spliting my trip up into two blogs...one about Michoacan and the other specifically about Dia de los Muertos. This one is about Michoacan.

My friend Jessica and I traveled by bus to Patzcuaro where we stayed for three nights. Patzcuaro is the largest of the towns surrounding the Lago de Patzcuaro and it really is a charming town. It is very different from Guanajuato, most noticeably through the architecture. All the buildings in Patzcuaro are white with red, slate roofs. The buses (called camis, short for camiones) in the city are basically vans that have benches around the edges of the inside...personal space is virtually non-existant. Everyone we met was really friendly and excited that we were there to visit. There was a huge market in the main plaza where vendors from all around the lake region brought their wares to sell to the people visiting for Dia de los Muertos.

The evening that we arrived, Jessica and I went to one of the muelles (docks) where there was supposed to be a performance of the Purepecha people which is the indigenous group that lives around the lake. While we were there we watched the sunset over the lake and ate some incredible fish at one of the small restaurants. As a side note, fish tacos are amazing especially with avocado and tomato.
The performance was a lot of fun - they showed all the different traditional dances of the Purepecha. My favorite was the dance of the viejitos (old men). The dancers are not old men, but they all wear masks, have canes and walk bent over like it's too painful to straighten their backs. The best part was that they had a tiny little boy dressed like this. He was three and was dancing and stomping as best he could. He was so cute!

Fishing is a huge part of the culture in the region and the people who live on the Isla de Janitzio have an especially unique way of catching the fish. The fishermen have small boats and huge nets called butterfly nets. They paddle out into the lake and then gather in a circle to dip their nets in the water and see what they can catch. It looks really cool when they raise the nets out of the water.
The next day we took a boat from the muelle to the Isla de Janitzio which is famous for its Dia de los Muertos celebrations. The island was a really neat place. There are no cars or animals larger than dogs on the island and all the people that live there are indigenous. They have shops lining the streets that sell local artisan products for incredibly cheap. The whole island is a hill rising out of the lake and at the top there is a statue of one of the heroes of the Mexican war for independence. We were able to climb up the inside and look out over the whole lake. It was beautiful, but climbing the spiral staircase was really scary. We spent a good part of the day in the Panteon (cemetery) looking at all the graves and how the families decorated them to honor their loved ones. My favorite part of the day was the sunset. There are mountains surrounding the lake and they get all misty in the evening and when the sun set, the clouds turned pink and orange and gold. All this was reflected in the water which just served to magnify how incredibly beautiful it was.
The following day, we decided to check out one of the other towns located around the lake. We chose to go to Tzintzuntzan (pronounced sin-sun-san) which means "place of the hummingbirds" in the Purepecha language. We had been told that there were some really neat prehispanic ruins there. It was true, there were ruins and they had round pyramids. The area where the pyramids were was beautiful and peaceful, so Jessica and I spent some time just relaxing in the grass. We visited the Panteon there as well before heading back to Patzcuaro.

It was a great trip and I'm so glad we were able to go. Not only did I get to see a beautiful part of Mexico and learn about the Purepechas and their lifestyle, but I was able to witness a holiday that is so very Mexican in the unique mixture of prehispanic and Catholic inspired traditions. Although Michoacan shares a border with Guanajuato, it is a very different place. By traveling there I got the chance to see another aspect of life in Mexico, specifically the impact that the indigenous groups have had in the area.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Cafe Culture

On of my favorite things to do in Guanajuato is to hang out in one of the various cafes sprinkled throughout the city. It's so wonderful to be able to relax with a cup of hot chocolate or coffee and read a book or simply people watch. My friend Jessica and I are regulars at several cafes, but we also like trying out a new one every so often. Our favorites all have a unique atmosphere, wireless internet, a free bathroom and, most importantly, delicious hot chocolate.

Each cafe has a different personality and different types of patrons. Cafe Carcamanes is a favorite with the university students, probably because they offer wireless internet. The place is decorated with large photos and paintings of Guanajuato and there is a bookshelf full of the classics in Spanish. The Pasteleria La Calle del Sol has a unique idea for tables. They use old trunks and have put a clear glass top over the trunk. Under the glass there are photos and tickets and memorabilia from Guanajuato. This cafe is frequented by more business people than students. Their chocolate chip cookies are incredible and enormous. There is Bagel Cafetin, which serves actual bagels with cream cheese. It is a great break from quesadillas for breakfast, plus they have wireless internet and couches. Every time I've been in the cafetin, there have been a large number of tourists. I guess bagels are everyone's comfort food.

The one complaint I have with the cafes in Guanajuato is their failure to make a normal cup of brewed coffee. They make the coffee in an espresso machine and it usually ends up tasting slightly burnt. To top this off, they never give you milk or creamer, so the coffee is bitter like nobody's business. However, never fear. We have a Starbucks in the Jardin, and they know how to make coffee right.


So while my cafe experience began at Starbucks, it has been wonderful to spend time in the non-chain cafes. I've had the opportunity to chat with the employees and some of the other patrons. I've given advice to tourists about what to see and where to eat during their stay in Guanajuato. It's gotten me out of the house and provided me with a great place to do homework or just chat with a friend. I'm going to miss the convenience and the whole environment a lot when I get back to the States.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

El Idioma

As I've been more and more exposed to the Spanish languages and all it's nuances, I've come to see not only how interesting and colorful a language it is, but also how humorous it is. Between conversations with people, listening to my homestay family, and reading for class or for pleasure, I have compiled a short list of some phrases and words that strike me as funny. Many of them do not translate literally, but I will do my best to explain them.

Phrases:
1. "el de los calzones" - this literally translates as "he of the long underwear," but is used to refer to the man of the house
2. "hacer la vista gorda" - literally "make/do a fat face," this phrase is used when someone is looking favorably on someone else
3. "manos de pulpo" - "hands of an octopus," used to refer to someone who touchy-feely
4. "pan comido" - "eaten bread," when something is set in stone
5. "que padre!" - doesn't translate literally but means "that's cool!"
6. "no son enchiladas" - is used when someone requests something with an unreasonable time limit; basically you are telling them that you can't finish whatever in time (enchiladas don't take long to make)

Spanish also has a lot of compound words which are fun:
1. rompecabeza: puzzle
2. parabrisas: windshield
3. trabalengua: tongue-twister
4. sobresaltar: to startle, make someone jump

These are just a few of the phrases and words I've learned here in Guanajuato. I've really enjoyed learning more Spanish and I've come to appreciate just how beautiful a language it is. I know that I still have a long way to go, but I'm proud of how much I've learned in the last few months. It's so wonderful to be able to give a presentation without stressing about verb tenses or vocabulary or carry on an actual dialogue with someone. I hope that over the next month, I am able to see even more improvements.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Cervantino: The Epitome of Diversity

The Annual Guanajuato International Cervantino Arts Festival started this week. It's been crazy. Guanajuato's population has increased significantly over the past few days, and it's noticeable. By about 2 o'clock in the afternoon, the streets are filled with performers and tourists. Walking anywhere has become an incredible task that requires a lot of strategy. Guanajuato has been preparing for this for a long time and it shows. There are new restaurants all over the place, and the ones that already existed have gotten face lifts. There were artisan shops in the city, but now they are displaying their wares in the street and the amount of goods has increased dramatically. The street food vendors are out in full force selling tacos, gorditas, tamales, fruit, ice cream. The city is embracing this opportunity wholeheartedly.

The most impressive part of this whole festival has been the incredible diversity that it brings to the city. As I walk down the street or pause in the midst of a crowd, I hear people speaking Spanish, English, French, German, Chinese, you name it. There are artists, singers, musicians, dancers, and actors from all over the world that have come to Guanajuato for the next three weeks.

So far, I love Cervantino. I spent this afternoon walking around the Centro trying to take it all in. In one afternoon, I watched part of a opera/puppet show by performers from the Czech Republic, a clown who had the crowd roaring, a group of musicians who played music that was mostly about revolution and drugs but had the younger crowd dancing along to their music, several teenagers break-dancing, and a group of living statues. I also discovered a new market that had so many different types of people selling things that it blew my mind. I guess I've always grouped Mexican people into the categories of "indigenous" and "not indigenous," but this market had the potheads, the goths, the indigenous, the artisans, the families...you get the idea. There was so much to look at, buy or have pierced or tattooed.

I'm so excited about the next few weeks! I'm planning on spending the majority of my free time walking around, going back to the market, listening to the street performers and just watching the world come to me. What an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!

Monday, October 5, 2009

Heads Were Flying

This weekend I went to San Miguel de Allende for the third and probably last time. The original plan was to watch the Running of the Bulls that is part of the Festival de San Miguel. Unfortunately, it was not until after we arrived that we learned that this particular event has been canceled for the last three years due to people getting completely out of control. Apparently, several years ago some kids got really drunk and ended up killing each other in the heat of the moment. So, we didn't see the bulls, but the trip wasn't a total bust - there were several events in the Jardin featuring traditional indigenous dances and exploding dolls as well as a parade.
The most interesting indigenous performance involved five men climbing to a platform at the top of a metal pole where they tied ropes around their waists. These ropes were long enough to reach the ground and they were wound around the top of the pole. As one man played a flute from the top of the pole, the other men let themselves fall off the platform and as the platform rotated, they were slowly lowered to the ground. Of course, all this was head-first. It was really neat, but terrifying because the pole swayed in the wind and it was really high.

We also watched one of the strangest rituals I have ever seen. People had been making these paper mache dolls that were mounted on metal frames. They then put the frames on long sticks and lit the dolls on fire. They must have had firecrackers or something in them because after spinning the dolls around in the air, they exploded. The most entertaining part was that the dolls' heads went flying and all the children raced to see who could catch the head. At first I thought maybe this was a good luck thing, but after asking around, it's basically just so the kids get to run around and take part in the ritual. It was hilarious!

On our way out of San Miguel the bus was prevented from going to the bus station by a huge parade. We had to walk the rest of the way which turned out to be one of the best parts of our day. This parade knocked the socks off the Guanajuato parade from last week. Every indigenous group from the area was represented and the people were dressed in traditional clothes and everyone was dancing to the pounding of drums. I've never seen such a wide variety of crazy headdresses - including feathers, beads, pompoms, and so much more. There were people carrying huge wooden sets that were decorated with flowers and grass. They looked extremely heavy and were very elaborate. It was loud and colorful and completely worth having to walk to the bus station.

The parade and all the other events combined to make an impressive display of culture, history and pride for their city and heritage. It would be so neat if we could have festivals like this in the States. I suppose that our fairs and parades show our own traditions, but it would be so much fun to have something like this be a part of our culture.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Word Pictures

This morning I went with CIEE to San Miguel de Allende to get some migration paperwork out of the way. I spent the entire bus ride looking out the window at the countryside. Guanajuato state has a lot to offer, but unfortunately I have no pictures. I'll have to do my best to describe it with words.

The early morning sun glows through the mist shrouding the mountains. The peaks are invisible giving them an eerie appearance. As the light increases, some mountains are revealed to be covered in short trees while others are bare and have rock-face peeking through. Some are rolling and safe while others are sharp and foreboding.

In the valleys, the trees and bushes are slowly revealed by the morning light. Everything is very green - the grass, the trees, the nopales (cactus). Random patches of wildflowers show pink and yellow and white, waving in the slight breeze. Cornstalks mingle with sunflowers. Herds of cattle meander throughout the valley grazing and mocking the horses limited to a single spot of grass. Dirt roads, hardly plentiful than the shallow rivers, lead off into the distance ending in homes, haciendas, rancheros.

There is an occasional pueblo with small, run-down homes and the typical large church, but many homes are isolated on the edges of the corn fields. As we drive past, we see people washing clothes, repairing walls, walking to the fields. Do they still see and love the beauty that surrounds them? Or are they so accustomed to it that they no longer notice? Maybe that beauty makes their day just a little better when the hardships get to be too much to handle. Maybe they take comfort that those mountains will remain long past their human existence.

Monday, September 28, 2009

The Day I Stood Within 5 ft of the President & Almost Blew Up the Kitchen

It turns out that holidays in Mexico can be some of the most exciting days of all. Today Guanajuato celebrated the Toma de la Alhondiga. Two weeks after the Grito of Hidalgo, the fight for Mexican independence moved to Guanajuato. The Alhondiga was a granary that the Spaniards holed up in but were defeated by the Mexicans because of the bravery of El Pipila, our local hero. It is a storming of the Bastille story, just in Mexico. Every year there is a huge parade through the streets of the city and everyone turns out to watch. Schools and businesses are closed and everyone participates.

I went to the parade. I love parades, but my real motivation was to see the president of Mexico, Felipe Calderon, who attends every year. Sure enough, he was there and I was able to stand within 5 feet of him. It was pretty neat. I did find it interesting how little security there was. There was a helicopter that flew in circles around the city and there were security guards on the roofs of the buildings around the Plaza de la Paz, but that was about it. He walked right through the streets and there was very little fuss. No one tried to talk to him or bother him. Still, it was a neat experience.
The parade lasted for three hours. It was eternal! Every school in Guanajuato sent a marching band to participate, all the government offices had people marching, and every organization in Guanajuato was represented. Just when I thought we might be getting to the end, all the cities in Guanajuato state marched through with their representatives and then the policemen, firemen, red cross volunteers, and every type of rescue people had to march through.
I joked that today would be the best day to commit a crime in Guanajuato and the worst day to have an emergency because all the policemen and emergency response crews were in downtown Guanajuato. It was an impressive display for sure.

After the parade, my friend Jessica and I decided that we were going to bake cookies since we didn't have class and we were craving chocolate chip cookies. This turned out to be a bigger challenge than we had originally thought. We went to the Mega which is like a Mexican version of Wal-Mart supercenter. They have everything, you just have to know what it is called in Spanish. We finally found all the ingredients we needed and headed back to my house to make the cookies.

When we arrived, my host family was out so we had to figure out how to light the gas stove all by ourselves. We looked up on youtube "how to light a gas stove" and then proceeded to follow the instructions. The lighters that my host family had in the kitchen were almost out of fuel, so keeping them lit while we waved them in front of the pilot light was extremely difficult. We couldn't find any matches, so we settled with a candle that we found in the kitchen. All this time I had been turning off the gas while we were in between flames so that we wouldn't blow the whole kitchen to kingdom come. We did finally get the oven lit; however, it was with a huge whoosh of flame that blew out of the oven. I don't think Jessica or I had ever moved so quickly in our lives. Nothing caught on fire and we were ok, but it was a moment before our hearts stopped pounding. We now know to ask someone before we try something like that again.

The oven knob had no temperature markers, so we just had to guess how long to cook the cookies. We must have had it on 700 degrees because they only took 4 minutes to bake. The cookies were delicious despite all the excitement and some substitutions with the ingredients. I personally think that if a person can bake yummy cookies in a foreign country with foreign ingredients and no standardized measuring utensils, they are all set in the cookie-baking category.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Cuan Grande Es El


Señor mi Dios
al contemplar los cielos
el firmamento y las estrellas mil
al oír tu voz en los potentes truenos
y ver brillar el sol en su cenit

Mi corazón entona la canción
Cuan grande es El, cuan grande es El
mi corazón entona la canción
cuan grande es El ,cuan grande es El

Cuando recuerdo del amor divino
Que desde el cielo al salvador envió
aquel Jesús que por salvarme vino
y en una cruz sufrió por mí, murió,

Cuando el Señor me llame a Su presencia
Al dulce hogar al cielo de esplendor,
le adoraré cantando la grandeza
de Su poder y su infinito amor