Monday, October 5, 2009

Heads Were Flying

This weekend I went to San Miguel de Allende for the third and probably last time. The original plan was to watch the Running of the Bulls that is part of the Festival de San Miguel. Unfortunately, it was not until after we arrived that we learned that this particular event has been canceled for the last three years due to people getting completely out of control. Apparently, several years ago some kids got really drunk and ended up killing each other in the heat of the moment. So, we didn't see the bulls, but the trip wasn't a total bust - there were several events in the Jardin featuring traditional indigenous dances and exploding dolls as well as a parade.
The most interesting indigenous performance involved five men climbing to a platform at the top of a metal pole where they tied ropes around their waists. These ropes were long enough to reach the ground and they were wound around the top of the pole. As one man played a flute from the top of the pole, the other men let themselves fall off the platform and as the platform rotated, they were slowly lowered to the ground. Of course, all this was head-first. It was really neat, but terrifying because the pole swayed in the wind and it was really high.

We also watched one of the strangest rituals I have ever seen. People had been making these paper mache dolls that were mounted on metal frames. They then put the frames on long sticks and lit the dolls on fire. They must have had firecrackers or something in them because after spinning the dolls around in the air, they exploded. The most entertaining part was that the dolls' heads went flying and all the children raced to see who could catch the head. At first I thought maybe this was a good luck thing, but after asking around, it's basically just so the kids get to run around and take part in the ritual. It was hilarious!

On our way out of San Miguel the bus was prevented from going to the bus station by a huge parade. We had to walk the rest of the way which turned out to be one of the best parts of our day. This parade knocked the socks off the Guanajuato parade from last week. Every indigenous group from the area was represented and the people were dressed in traditional clothes and everyone was dancing to the pounding of drums. I've never seen such a wide variety of crazy headdresses - including feathers, beads, pompoms, and so much more. There were people carrying huge wooden sets that were decorated with flowers and grass. They looked extremely heavy and were very elaborate. It was loud and colorful and completely worth having to walk to the bus station.

The parade and all the other events combined to make an impressive display of culture, history and pride for their city and heritage. It would be so neat if we could have festivals like this in the States. I suppose that our fairs and parades show our own traditions, but it would be so much fun to have something like this be a part of our culture.

No comments:

Post a Comment